Meant to post this last night but went to go see Riding Giants in Oceanside. Got there a little late but met up with Taylor and the surf guru himself, Ric. Who also happens to be Taylor's dad. But Taylor is not a guru child. He is no Laird Hamilton. But hey, i'm not even Taylor in the water so who am I to say anything. Their has seemed to be this surge or surf movies over the past year. This has been my favorite by far. It shows the history of big wave surfing with all the usual people from the other movies. But this time it's much more historical. Great interviews with the old pros and the new generation of big wave surfers. Unlike Billabong's movie, this shows old clips as well as new. Old school big wave surfing and tow in as well. Lots of amazing footage with some insane wipeouts. These guys are fucking nuts. Then we walked to Calima's for a chicken burrito so good, you'd kill for it. It's only 9:45 so everyone is just starting to make their way to the clubs. The three of us are going home because we gotta get up early in the morning. Kinda depressing but I don't have to work TOO early.
Finally got out of work today at 6. Smelly, sweating, and overheating in my car that only has two functional windows, I head straight for the beach. A big swell has hit our area and waves were a 4+ feet at times. I think I saw 7 or 8 footer but i'm not good at judging. I'm have not nearly enough skill so I was only in the water for 30 minutes. Tomorrow is supposed to be bigger. Definatly gonna check it out. Maybe (...may...be...) go in the water and catch a shore breaker (which will probably be 2+) or just go under some huge ones. New Sealab tonight. All over that shit. Peace out. One Love and all of that.
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